Horse Shoe Sizes: Charts, Conversions, Terminology, and How to Pick the Right Fit
- Horse Education Online
- 2 days ago
- 13 min read
Updated: 13 hours ago
Finding the correct horse shoe size isn’t just about comfort—it’s about protecting your horse’s hooves, supporting healthy biomechanics, and preventing avoidable lameness issues. A shoe that’s off in size can lead to gait imbalances, hoof wall damage, or conditions like quarter cracks.
In this guide, you’ll find:
Easy-to-read horse shoe size charts (including US, UK, and metric conversions)
How to measure a hoof accurately for the perfect fit
The difference between front vs hind shoes and why shape matters
How shoe material and thickness influence sizing
Common terminology when considering shoe options
You’ll also be able to download a printable chart to keep in your tack room or barn office. If you’re new to shoeing or want to better understand the process, you may want to start with our guide on why we shoe horses and how to tell if yours needs them.
Horse Shoe Sizes Explained
When people first see a horse shoe size stamped as “0,” “2,” or “5,” they often think it’s a universal standard—but in reality, horse shoe sizing varies widely by brand, region, and shoe style. Understanding how these numbers are assigned will help you make informed choices and avoid mismatches.
Terminology of machine-made shoes
Some specific terminology is sometimes utilized when talking about factory-made horseshoes:
"Keg"
Machine-made or ready-made shoes are commonly referred to as "keg" shoes. The term "keg" originated in the early-to-mid 1800s during the Industrial Revolution, when mechanized forging processes made it possible to mass-produce uniform shoes rather than having each one hand-forged by a blacksmith.
The name likely comes from the way early manufacturers shipped them — packed in wooden kegs or barrels.
Photo Credit: Butler Professional Farrier School "Aught"
“Aught” is an archaic way to say zero. A shoe stamped with a 0 will be referred to by farrier as a size "aught" shoe. A 00 is a "double aught", 000 a "triple aught", 4x0 a "four aught", all the way to the smaller available sizes for small ponies such as 8x0 or "eight aught".
How sizing works by brand and region
Horse shoe manufacturers each have their own sizing system. For example:
US sizes often run from 000 (small ponies) to size 8 or higher (draft horses)
EU sizes can look similar but don’t always match in millimeter measurements
Metric sizing is typically based on the width of the shoe in millimeters, which can be more precise but isn’t used everywhere
When switching brands, even if the size number is the same, the fit may change slightly. Always compare the manufacturer’s chart or use our downloadable conversion table to double-check.
Front vs hind patterns and toe shape
Front shoes are designed with a rounder toe to match the natural shape of a front hoof, while hind shoes are more pointed or oval for propulsion. This configuration is to match the internal structures of the hoof.
Coffin Bone of the Front Feet (Left)
Two-thirds of the weight of the horse is supported by the front feet. Because they have to support most of the horse’s weight, the front feet tend to be rounder, providing better weight distribution.
Coffin Bone of the Hind Feet (Right)
The horse's hind end is the “engine” responsible for propulsion. Movement starts in the hind end. The hind feet are generally pointed with a narrower toe to aid in “purchase,” which is the ability to grab the ground and push off.
If your horse competes in performance disciplines, shoe pattern choice is just as important as size—especially when it comes to traction. Our guide on horseshoes and traction explains how surface conditions and shoe features work together.
Steel vs aluminum and how thickness changes fit
Steel shoes are heavier and more durable, often slightly thinner than aluminum
Aluminum shoes are lighter, more common in performance horses, but tend to be bulkier in cross-section
The thickness of the shoe can slightly alter different aspects of shoe fit, so always measure with the specific shoe type in mind. A thicker branch can affect nail hole placement and breakover. If you’re not sure how breakover influences hoof mechanics, see our detailed article on what breakover is and why it matters.
Measuring Your Horse’s Hoof the Right Way
Accurate measurements are the foundation of getting horse shoe sizes right. Even a few millimeters off can affect balance, pressure distribution, and hoof health. Following a consistent method ensures a better fit every time.
Tools you need and a one-minute prep
Before you start, gather:
A hoof pick and wire brush to clean dirt, stones, and manure
A soft measuring tape (millimeters are best for conversions)
Have your horse stand square and relaxed. Hoof measurement should be taken on a recently trimmed hoof that is clean and dry to avoid skewed readings. Measuring hooves that are overgrown will not provide you with useful information, as the measurements will change once the hoof is trimmed and any flares are removed.
Step-by-step measuring for factory made (keg) shoes
Please note that this guide only applies to measuring for keg shoes. To forge handmade shoes, the measuring protocol is different.
On a freshly trimmed hoof, place the tape’s zero at the edge of one heel buttress.
Pull the soft tape snug along the perimeter of the hoof wall, around the toe, to the opposing heel buttress. Note that distance.
Add ½ inch (1.3cm) to that number.
Measure the perimeter of the keg shoe from heel to heel.
Select the shoe whose heel-to-heel perimeter matches your adjusted measurement.
Tip: if between sizes, choose the next size up and fit.
Breakover placement and why it matters for size choice
Breakover is the point where the hoof leaves the ground during stride. Poorly placed breakover can lead to stumbling, tendon strain, or navicular stress. A well-balanced trim paired with right shoe size supports appropriate breakover point without forcing early or late lift-off. If you’re new to the concept, check our guide on what breakover is and why it matters.
Horse Shoe Size Charts and Conversions
Once you’ve measured, the next step is matching your numbers to a size chart. This is where it gets tricky. Horse shoe sizes differ not just between countries, but even between brands within the same region.
US to UK to Metric conversion table
Here’s a sample of how measurements can differ:
US Size | UK Size | Width (mm) | Width (inches) |
000 | 1 | 89 | 3.5" |
0 | 3 | 114 | 4.5" |
2 | 5 | 127 | 5.0" |
5 | 8 | 152 | 6.0" |
Full printable chart available as a downloadable PDF.
Common brand mapping notes
Kerckhaert sizes often run slightly larger than St. Croix for the same number
Mustad shoes tend to have more nail hole pitch, so even if the width matches, branch length may vary
Always check the manufacturer’s official size guide before ordering in bulk
Typical size ranges by type: pony, light horse, draft
Ponies & minis: 8X0 to 00
Light horses (Quarter Horses, Arabians, TBs): 00 to 3
Draft breeds: 5 and up, with custom options for extra-large hooves
If you’re fitting for specialized shoes, such as egg bars or bar shoes, keep in mind these may be sized differently and may require custom shaping.
Picking the Correct Shoe for Discipline and Footing
Even if you’ve nailed the perfect horse shoe size, the choice of style and features can make or break your horse’s comfort and performance. The discipline your horse works in, combined with the footing they train or compete on, plays a huge role in which shoe will work best.
Trail riding – All-terrain durability
Trail horses encounter gravel, rocks, mud, and uneven footing. A slightly heavier steel shoe with a moderate toe clip or side clips can help with:
Durability – Steel withstands abrasive surfaces better than aluminum
Stability – A wider web (branch width) distributes weight more evenly
Grip – Mild concave profiles can help on loose footing without adding aggressive traction that risks soft tissue injury
Arena work – Lightweight precision
In arenas, especially for disciplines like dressage, reining, or barrel racing, a lighter aluminum shoe can reduce limb fatigue and improve responsiveness.
Reduced weight – Helps quick footfall and agile turns
Low profile – Minimizes interference with arena footing
Custom toe shapes – Rounded or rolled toes for smoother breakover
Horses that require additional heel support in arena work, such as those recovering from navicular strain, might use an egg bar shoe. Egg bars extend the bearing surface behind the heels, offering extra support without increasing toe weight. More details are in our article on egg bar shoes.
Road work – Traction and wear protection
Horses on hard-packed roads or asphalt benefit from shock-reducing designs.
Borium and other traction devices – Extends wear life and increase traction
Polyurethane inserts – Adds shock absorption to reduce joint strain
Wide-web shoes – Distribute concussion over a larger surface
For deeper insight into how shoe features interact with terrain, check our article on horseshoes and traction.
Competition & Specialized Footing
Eventers, jumpers, and endurance horses often require custom traction options like studs or screw-in inserts. However, too much traction can cause soft tissue injuries. The choice must be matched to footing type, horse’s way of going, and discipline rules. See our full guide on horseshoes and traction for in-depth recommendations.
Fit Check: Do These Five Things Before You Nail
Even if you’ve chosen the perfect horse shoe size, the real test is in the fit before the first nail is driven. A poorly seated shoe can undo all the benefits of correct sizing, leading to uneven wear, strain, or long-term hoof damage.
1. Heel coverage and quarter alignment
Check: The shoe branches should end just behind the buttress on a well-trimmed hoof, with the quarters lining up with the widest part of the hoof.
Why it matters: Shoe branches that are too short or fail to cover the buttresses can, overtime, lead to caudal hoof failure, bruising, corns, and lameness; branches that are too long increase the risk of shoe pulling, shoe boils, capped elbows,...
2. Toe length and breakover position
Check: The toe of the shoe should align with the hoof wall, and the breakover point should follow the horse’s natural stride mechanics and hoof conformation.
Why it matters: An overlong toe delays breakover, increasing tendon strain and risk of stumbling; a toe set too far back can cause breakover to occur too soon, which can also lead to stumbling and a decrease in stability and coordination.
Helpful read: See what breakover is and why it matters.
3. Sole and white line safety
Check: The shoe should sit in full contact with the hoof wall, but clear of the sole.The nail holes should be positioned exactly over the white line. IMPORTANT: The shoe can cover a portion of sole, but it should not touch it. You should be able to slide a piece of paper between the sole and the shoe.
Why it matters: Nailing within the sole can cause bruising, abscesses, and lameness. Nailing within the hoof wall can cause hoof wall separation, cracking, and loss of hoof integrity over time.
Contact between the shoe and the sole will lead to bruising, lameness, and abscessing. In severe cases where a horse is shod with considerable amounts of sole contact over multiple cycles, the pressure can lead to loss of blood flow to the circumflex artery inside the hoof. This will lead to a major structural breakdown of the hoof if not resolved.
4. Hoof-pastern axis balance
Check: Draw an imaginary line from the pastern down through the hoof— in most horses, this line should be straight. IMPORTANT: in horses with pathology, certain conformation faults, and other conditions, the hoof-pastern axis will not, may never be, and sometimes should not be straight. Hoof-pastern axis is a general guideline that applies to a majority of horses, not all of them.
Why it matters: If the axis is broken forward or backward in a way that doesn't reflect the horse's biomechanics and conformation, it will lead to abnormal stresses being placed on both bones and soft tissue.
5. Nail pitch and hold
Check: Nails should exit the hoof wall evenly and at a matching angle, securing the shoe. High nails are safer, provide a more secure attachment to the hoof, and promote hoof integrity.
Why it matters: Incorrect nail pitch can weaken the hoof wall (too low) or cause sensitivity (overly pitched).
Horse Shoe Fit Check Guide
Checkpoint | What to Look For | Why It Matters |
Heel Coverage & Quarter Alignment | Shoe branches end just behind buttresses; quarters align with widest part of hoof | Prevents heel restriction, underrun heels, uneven load distribution, bruising |
Toe Length & Breakover Position | Breakover point conforms to the horse's conformation and biomechanical needs | Avoids strain from delayed or premature breakover and maintains stride efficiency, coordination and balance |
Sole Depth & White Line Safety | Shoe seated clear of sole; nails placed within the white line | Prevents sole bruising, abscesses, and hoof wall separation |
Hoof-Pastern Axis Balance | Hoof-pastern axis conforms to the horse's conformation and biomechanical needs | Ensures even limb loading and reduces stress to bony structure and soft tissue |
Nail Pitch & Hold | Nails exit hoof wall evenly and at matching angles | Secures shoe without pinching or weakening hoof wall |
Quick Tip: Take a final look at the hoof from the front, side, and rear before nailing. Small adjustments now can prevent weeks of discomfort.
When to Upsize, Downsize, or Switch Patterns
Even if your horse’s current shoes seem “fine,” subtle changes in hoof growth, workload, or health can mean it’s time for a different horse shoe size or pattern. Knowing the warning signs early can save you from hoof damage or lameness.
Signs the shoe is too small
Buttresses are not covered
Shoe nail holes are uncomfortably close to the inner edge of the white line or over the sole
Hoof wall flares beyond the shoe edges
Increased chipping or cracking at the quarters
A too-small shoe creates uneven load distribution, does not provide enough surface for healthy heel expansion, and can contribute to underrun heels or contracted heels over time.
Signs the shoe is too large
Excessive overhang at heels or quarters
Shoe catches on footing, increasing the risk of overreaching
Loose fit within a few days of shoeing
Nail holes placed over the hood wall, outside the white line
Chronic shoe pulling
An oversized shoe can cause leverage forces at breakover and heel lift-off, leading to strain in the deep digital flexor tendon and suspensory ligaments.
Gait faults to watch after a size change
If you notice any of these after a new set of shoes, size or pattern may be the issue:
Shortened stride length
Toe-first landing rather than heel-first
Increased stumbling or tripping
Uneven wear between front and hind shoes
Horse Shoe Sizing Adjustment Guide
Situation / Sign | Likely Action | Why It Matters |
Buttresses are not covered | Upsize | Prevents bruising and caudal hoof failure |
Hoof wall flares beyond shoe edges | Upsize | Restores full support to hoof capsule and prevents cracks |
Nail holes too close to the inner edge of the white line, or over the sole | Upsize or switch pattern | Prevents "quicking" or "hot" or "close" nailing, abscessing, bruising |
Excess overhang at heels or quarters | Downsize | Reduces leverage and prevents overreaching injuries |
Shoe catches on footing | Downsize or change to narrower branch pattern | Prevents tripping and shoe loss |
Shortened stride or toe-first landing after shoeing | Switch pattern, reassess trim quality, assess caudal hoof health | Addresses breakover placement or hoof balance issues |
Uneven wear between front and hind shoes | Switch pattern or adjust size per hoof | Balances loading and prevents limb strain |
Cost, Replacement Cycle, and Care
The correct horse shoe is only part of the equation. Knowing what it costs, how long a set lasts, and how to care for them ensures you get the best value and protect your horse’s hooves.
Price ranges by metal and brand
Steel shoes – Most common and durable, typically $120–$200 per full set including farrier labor in North America.
Aluminum shoes – Lighter but wear faster, aluminum is more expensive than steel, often $150–$250 per set.
Specialty or therapeutic shoes (egg bars, heart bars, or custom designs) – Can range $200–$400 per set due to added forging time and material costs.
Specialty sizes or rare patterns may cost more due to limited availability. See our articles on egg bar shoes and bar shoes for examples.
How long a set lasts by workload and footing
Light work / arena – 6 to 8 weeks
Moderate work / mixed terrain – 5 to 7 weeks
Heavy work / hard surfaces – 4 to 5 weeks
Shoes that are the correct size and fitted well typically wear evenly, which helps extend the replacement cycle. Poor sizing can cause uneven wear, forcing earlier resets.
Daily care that extends life
Pick out hooves daily to remove stones and prevent shoe loosening
Rinse after work in sandy or gritty conditions to prevent abrasion
Check clinches and nail heads regularly for lifting or loosening
Schedule consistent farrier visits based on your horse’s growth rate rather than waiting for visible problems
Proper care not only prolongs shoe life but also keeps the hoof capsule healthy, reducing the risk of lameness or quarter cracks.
Additional Resources
📥 Download your free horse shoe size conversion chart (PDF ) to keep in your tack room or barn office.
Related reading and tools:
Frequently Asked Questions – Horse Shoe Sizes
What size horse shoe does my horse need?
The correct size depends on accurate hoof measurements. Measure both width (widest part of the hoof) and length (toe to heel buttress) after cleaning the hoof thoroughly. Compare these numbers to the manufacturer’s size chart for the shoe brand you’re buying—remember that front and hind hooves often require different sizes due to their shape.
Tip: Learn how to measure step-by-step in our hoof measurement guide.
How do I convert UK horse shoe sizes to US?
UK sizes often run 1–2 numbers higher than the equivalent US size for the same hoof width. For example, a US size 2 (about 127 mm wide) may be a UK size 4. Always double-check with a conversion chart, as some brands have unique numbering.
Do front hooves and hind hooves use different sizes?
Yes. Front shoes are rounder to match the natural shape of the front hoof, while hind shoes are more oval to support propulsion. Even if the width is similar, the patterns are different, so using the wrong shoe type can cause uneven wear or gait imbalance. Read more about the importance of shape in our guide on horseshoes and traction.
When should I move up a size?
It’s time to size up if:
Buttresses are not covered
Hoof wall flares past the shoe edges
Nail holes are too close to the white line
The shoe causes pinching or uneven wear
If you notice any of these signs, consult your farrier immediately. Early adjustments can prevent hoof capsule distortion and conditions like quarter cracks.
What shoe size is best for draft horses?
Most draft breeds wear size 5 and above, but measurement is still essential. Draft hooves vary widely—some need wide-web shoes for extra support, others benefit from concave profiles for better traction.Specialty shoes like bar shoes may be required for heavy pulling or hoof health issues.
Can a poor fit cause quarter cracks?
Absolutely. Shoes that are too small or incorrectly aligned can alter weight distribution, creating excess stress at the quarters. Over time, this can cause cracks that weaken the hoof wall and lead to lameness.For prevention tips, see our guide on quarter cracks in horses.
Are aluminum shoes sized the same as steel?
Not always. Aluminum shoes can differ in branch width, thickness, and toe profile, which means the same size number may not fit identically to a steel shoe. Always measure with the exact shoe type in mind and adjust sizing accordingly.
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